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It had been raining for some time. The wind screamed and water fell in horizontal sheets.

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I started out from Mandsaur after lunch in bright sunlight. Now it was early evening and it was dark and gloomy.

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The rain had started just after I started to climb towards Ratangarh. My car rattled along and as the wind howled obscenities at me.

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It was 1993, and MP was still not developed and retained much of the old colonial legacy.

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I

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