Temples of India: Aranmula Temple: Kerala

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Front view of the courtyard of the temple.
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Temples in India have a cultural mooring. They are not just places of worship but depositories of traditions, knowledge, culture and a meeting place for the people.

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Each temple has its own legends, stories and practices which make them unique.

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South Indian Temples are very different to the ones in the north or east or west. The temples in Kerala, the southernmost state, are distinct and different from the ones in the other southern states in architecture as well as some of the practices and traditions.

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The Aranmula Temple is about two hours’ drive from Cochin. It is a pleasant drive if you get no traffic. The winding narrow roads, the small rivers that you cross, the back waters and the greenery make it a pleasant drive.

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The Temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna as Parthasarathy and legend has it that it was built by Arjuna, the Pandava hero of the Mahabharata, to atone for the sin of killing his brother Karna who was unarmed.

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Arjun is also called Partha and Sarathy means charioteer. As Krishna was the charioteer of Partha, he is also called Parthasarathy.

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 It is fitting that Arjuna built a temple for his charioteer as Krishna was the guiding force in the Mahabharata, especially for Arjuna.

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My favourite Aranmula story is of Balarama and Krishna. The brothers were travelling and a tired Krishna requested his elder brother Balarama to find a place for resting awhile. Balarama reached the place where the temple now stands on the banks of the Pampa river. He found a good place to rest near the river and to tease and play a prank on Krishna, Balarama rested there without waiting or fetching Krishna.

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When a Krishna reached the place, he found a smug Balarama resting comfortably.

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Krishna to teach Balarama a lesson and also being the younger brother wanted to upstage Balarama. So, he built a bigger place at a higher elevation which overshadows Balarama’s house.

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Even today the main temple of Parthasarathy is a large beautiful temple at a higher elevation and poor Balarama is near the river at a lower level so you walk down to worship him.

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Hindu stories of the Gods are so much fun, the Gods too have foibles, siblings have rivalry and tease each other.

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Aranmula is an ancient temple and there are many legends and stories associated with the temple. Krishna came here on a raft made of six bamboos and hence the name Aranmula which means six bamboos.

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The temple structure, as can be seen in the photos, is typical of the Kerala style of temple architecture. It is a large and beautiful temple, well maintained and preserved. It is built on an elevation and you climb a about 18 steps to enter through the main doorway to the outer courtyard of the temple.

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The outer walls of the sreekovil, the inner sanctum have frames holding lamps which are lit during festivals and it is a sparkling sight to see all the lamps lit and the temple radiating in the mellow light of the thousands of oil lamps.

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Legend has it that a devout brahmin, a nambuthiri, promised to provide the Thiruonam sadhya at the temple, a feast to celebrate the festival of onam. He was on the way to deliver the provisions to the Aranmula Temple in a boat, locally called a ” Thoni”.

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While on the way to the temple, one year, he was attacked by thugs and all seemed lost. But snake boats, war canoes called “Chundan Vallam” from nearby villages came to the rescue. The villages around than constructed snake boats and since then the tradition of snake boats escorting the canoe carrying the supplies for the feast on Thiruonam started. Today about 52 snake boats accompany the Nambuthiri from “Kattor Illam” who comes with the provisions for the feast on Onam day.

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Interestingly the ornaments of Ayappan, the lord of Sabarimala, is kept at Aranmula temple and is taken every year to Sabarimala from here.

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Aranmula Temple is an interesting place of worship for its architecture, legends and the peace you get worshiping here. Early mornings at all Kerala temples are blissful when there is not much of a rush, there is silence, solitude and spiritual awakening that touches a primal chord in us.

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Aranmula, by the side of the rive Pampa is a blissful place to visit and pray.

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Namaste till next time.

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The entrance to the temple.
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In many temples in Kerala, you have folk singers who will sing a prayer for you to the Nagdevtas, snake Gods, for protecting you and blessing you. This lady sang for me. It’s soulful and pleasant to hear the folk song accompanied by single string instrument.
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